Pet Sale Regulations Vs Pet Ownership

Where do you go if you wanted to acquire a pet dog? Your current options are: the nearby pet stores, the rescue or animal shelter, or check out the morning paper or the internet for resources. Or ask a dog-owner friend for referrals. If you are in San Francisco your options may be limited. Soon.

The San Francisco Commission of Animal Control and Welfare will discuss a proposed ban on the sale of dogs and cats, and a host of other small animals, including birds and fish. The proposed ordinance provides that in San Francisco people could acquire pets "of all species" only through pet store adoptions, direct retail sale by small breeders, or adoption from shelters or animal rescue organizations. All other pet sales, including by pet stores, would be completely prohibited.

To pet owners and dog lovers, the difference between pet store adoption and pet store sale may be just a question of semantics. Or maybe price. So call it adoption, not a sale. Problem solved.

Not that easy. Because businesses are involved. The proposed ban on pet sale impacts a business that nationally generated $2.16 billion in live animal purchases in 2009. It is estimated to have grown to $2.21 billion in 2010, according to a 2009-2010 National Pet Owners Survey by the American Pet Products Association (APPA).

As the pet sale business grows, so do the issues and problems arising from pet over-population and unwanted animals. The proposed ban is expected to stop the sale of dogs and cats from puppy mills and decreasing euthanasia rates of other small animals in city shelters.

It is easy to get carried away by so-called national statistics on animals that go in and out of shelters, or those that are euthanized. Supporters of pet sale ban also cite the big cost to the taxpayer in rounding up, housing, killing, and disposing of homeless animals. Recent cost figures cited are almost equal to the business generated by the live animal purchase industry. But it is just as easy to lose the trail in verifying the real source of these statistics. The reality is there, however: it costs taxpayer money to address these problems.

While the issue is being addressed in San Francisco, it is not an isolated problem. Local and state agencies across the country -- Los Angeles, New York, Vermont, Pennsylvania, and Hawaii, for instance -- are faced with the same problems and are proposing similar or related initiatives controlling pet sale and ownership. And while the problems are being addressed on the local and state levels, the outcomes will have nationwide, even global, impact because of the nature of the pet sale business itself and the internet.

The Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council (PIJAC), a non-profit service-oriented organization based in Washington D.C. and comprised by members of the pet industry and people who care about pets, is vigilant about government control and regulations. In San Francisco, the PIJAC has campaigned against the ban in multiple meetings after the proposed ban was introduced last year. PIJAC believes in re-homing adaptable animals, not limiting the availability of pets to the public, to solve the shelter issue. And pet retailers have committed to re-home adoptable animals from shelters, a commitment which the local council deems is not the answer.

PIJAC supports the right of individuals to responsibly own pets and to have the options as to where to get them according to their preference. It also maintains that pet stores provide healthy, responsibly raised pets to the public and should be an option, and that the public should not be discouraged from pet ownership by imposing costly and burdensome government restrictions.

While the issue in San Francisco is divided between the local government agency and animal rights groups on one hand and PIJAC and its supporters on the other hand, the pet owners sector has a role to play. In the case of pet dogs, what is responsible dog ownership? Where does it start? Does it start with simply wanting a dog and getting one from wherever is convenient or where the price is most affordable? Or does it stretch as far back as to where the dog comes from and under what conditions it was bred? And does that responsibility stretch far into the future with regards to their commitment to having a dog?

Responsible pet ownership then starts the moment you decide at having a pet. But right now, if you are in San Francisco, whatever options you have hang in the balance. If you have strong opinions about this issue, you can let the San Francisco Commission of Animal Control and Welfare know. If you are outside of San Francisco, the same issues could be in the corridors of the animal welfare commission near you. Ultimately your action may be the factor that will tip the balance -- for or against the proposed ban.

Dog Bathing As an Indoor Sport

If you've just finished bathing your dog, you may feel like you've earned a gold medal. Successfully bathing and grooming your pooch without inflicting water damage to carpets, floors or furnishings can make you feel like you're the winner for the latest indoor sports event. Three cheers for you! You won!

If you're a bit timid about getting into the water, here's a bit of coaching that will help you train for your next Olympic trial:

1. How often? This depends on your dog. A mischievous Westie that's attracted to the latest disgusting smelly substance may need baths more often than a couch potato sort of Greyhound. For the sake of your dog's skin, baths shouldn't be more frequent than once a week. (In the case of disgusting smelly exposure, you may need to improvise a bit.) A more fastidious dog could go three months between baths.

2. How big did you say? Where you bathe your dog depends on the size of your dog. A terrier breed fits nicely in the kitchen sink. A Golden Retriever belongs in the bathtub, or on warmer days, a kiddie pool or large plastic tub in the back yard.

3. Timing's everything. If you have the luxury of time, introduce your dog to the bath gradually. Put her in the tub or sink when there's no water. Give her a treat. She's so smart! Then get her out (or give her the command to jump out) before she can think about jumping out herself. On another day, add a wee bit of water to the sink or tub and repeat the exercise. Finally on the last day, you can bathe your dog. Slow and steady is a great approach.

4. Preparing your tools. Having everything you need within reach is crucial. A stack of towels, a small bath cloth, specialty pet shampoo, pet brush and cotton balls are all practical. A non-slip mat helps Scoundrel keep his footing secure. If that's not available, a towel in the tub or dishtowel in the sink can also suffice.

5. Can't I just use baby shampoo? Please don't! The pH of your skin is very different from the pH your pet's skin. Even baby shampoo can dry out your dog's skin which can lead to other problems.

6. Just before the immersion. Brush your pet before he's wet. The knots are much easier to handle dry rather than wet. You'll also manage to get a good bit of loose hairs out before they end up in your kitchen or bathroom plumbing pipes.

7. Where are my ear plugs?? Actually, cotton balls are all you need to protect your dog's ears. Put them in her ears to keep them dry. Wet ears can lead to all sorts of problems.

8. Just right water is perfect. Warm water - not cold or hot - is best, and smaller dogs can become chilled easily.

9. Shake your booty. With apologies to K.C. and the Sunshine Band, it's a given that your dog is going to shake, but you want to have a little say about "when." A hand on your dog's back as you're getting him out can prevent him from shaking himself and showering everyone (and everything) in close proximity. Towel him off as best as you can and lead him to a safer place to shake off the excess water.

10. Location, location. Remember how you thought long and hard about where your dog is best allowed to shake? If you made it to the back yard, monitor her closely to keep her from wallowing in your flower bed. Some clean dogs are simply drawn to dirt.

Zebra Finches are easy to care for and that includes when they are breeding. The little birds are great pets due their quirky little personalities,

When creating the ideal aviary or cage for your finches remember that as small as they are they're very energetic and need space to move. They are made to fly long distances so this must be taken into consideration when building their home. For the benefit of their health and wellbeing they must not be kept in an environment that is too small or suffocating.

You have two options when it comes to an aviary or cage for your finches, purchasing one or building one;

Constructing one is usually the cheaper option and most of the tools can be found close to home; such as a hammer, nails, staple gun, saw, barbed wire, sandpaper, wire screening and lumber.
• Make the lumber splinter free by sanding it down.
• Create the front, back and sides by building frames.
• Stretch the mesh over each of them.
• Screw all the parts together.
• You now have the basics of an aviary.

If not an aviary for your finches then a cage for your is a good alternative. Remember don't purchase a cage that is too small, and don't overcrowd the cage with too many birds; remember space is essential to their health.

A 'Flight bird cages' is another idea. They are made for birds that need to move a lot. They are a lot taller and wider than other cages and are made to house more birds in the one space. They come with several feeders and perches. You can have more than two finches in a flight bird cage but don't forget the issue of space.

When it comes to accessories stick only to what is needed;
• Finch feeders for food and water.
• Dishes for bathing and for treats and grit.
• Perches of different sizes depending on the size of the aviary or cage. Perches are good for your finches feet and for keeping their toe nails trimmed.
• For the bottom of the cage use either grit paper or paper sprinkled with grit.
• An optional extra is a 'bird protector' disk on the side of the cage. This is great for protecting them from mites.
• A great idea is to give them a nest box for them to sleep in at night.
• However you choose to create their home, remember it should have ventilation, be draft free and in a well lit area but away from direct sunlight.

These are just a few ideas to get you started. There are many other resources available to help you in the form of eBooks, websites, online articles and pet stores.

Creating a good aviary or cage for your finches is essential to their health, and usually affordable depending on how you approach it. They have minimal demands and will offer you lots of leisure time in return. They are small yet sturdy and tend to live a long time. Due to their endless energy, cheery bird song and beautiful colours they offer all finch enthusiasts' hours of amusement and entertainment.

Pet Sitting Services

Pet sitting can be a great option for your family's pet while you are away on vacation. It is one of the fastest growing businesses and you can assure that your pet will be properly cared for and pampered. Knowing that your family's beloved pet is being taken care of while you are away will allow you to relax and enjoy your vacation without too much stress or worry. There are many services offered by pet sitting services including, short term visits, extended visits, grooming, walks, play time, feeding services, one on one time, spa services, and many more things to make sure your pet is comfortable and cared for.

A professional pet sitting service will ensure that your pet is safe and happy while you are away. Some components of this safety and comfort include, exercise, attention and comfortable accommodations. Many places will provide daily exercise and runs for your dog to get out and have some fun. Ensuring that your dog gets plenty of exercise will decrease its separation anxiety and depression while you are away. Play time is very important for your pets' general health and well being.

In addition to exercise, if your pet is staying for overnight or extended stays you want to be sure that its accommodations are comfortable as well. A private kennel that has comfortable lounging areas as well as a clean spot for your pet will ensure maximum comfort. You also want your pet to have enough room to relax without feeling trapped in a confined space.

Another benefit of pet sitting is that you can drop your pet off for a day of errands or a vacation and your pet will get groomed and pampered while you are away. This saves you from having to do the tedious dirty work of having to clean your pet and leave it in the hands of a professional who can provide the best job and make sure your pet it not harmed in the process.

Your pet is part of your family and loved, so choosing a pet sitting service that will take care of your family member is important. Some things to look for are cleanliness of the facility, size of the place your pet will be staying as well as exercise areas. You can also trust local reviews because they can provide a pet owners perspective. Choosing the right place for your pet will take care of your needs as well as your pet's needs.

Dog Training: Basics of Being in Control of Your Dog

You may think that by speaking to your dog the way you would speak to a person or a child you could command obedience and control. Not always. Specifically, not if you have a problem dog. Some dog behavior and psychology experts even tell us, it starts with being in control of yourself.

When I first saw on TV Cesar Millan of The Dog Whisperer being interviewed on the O'Reilly Factor, the dog-scared in me thought he was some super human who whispered to dogs into obeying him. Not quite. Watching this TV show on dog rehabilitation and training the humans -- free with our Comcast On Demand subscription -- I came to the conclusion that his power over dogs seemed to come from a clear understanding of dog psychology that he could work even the most reticent one into submission. He was fearless in the face of fierce and problematic dogs even as he meets them for the first time. It also made sense to me how owners can cause their own dog problems, as Millan pointed out, by treating them as if they were humans and expecting them to behave like humans.

There is the frustrated owner who cannot stop his dog from getting out of control as soon as it gets out the door. The dog bolts and each time, he has to run after it. No amount of talking or stern warning, even pulling, worked. Or the little terror pooch who barks and snarls and looks every inch like it is ready to nip at anyone who comes within a few feet of it - even at the owner herself. To talk or communicate with these pets is indeed a big challenge.

On the other hand, I have actually seen dogs immediately sit and look adoringly at their master when told. Or run to their master by a simple call, no matter how busy it was with something else. Others could be made to do some cute little tricks, like roll, play dead, give me five, or what-have-you. Something connects and works.

I would not go into the tricks part yet. That is another level, another discussion. Rather, I will go into the basic obedience part where one should be able to control his dog, big or small. I am not an expert in dog training but from watching all those dog shows on TV, I have come up with four major bullet points that were shown to have worked:

• You have to be calm when you try to control your dog. Being upset, agitated or scared are signs of negative high energy that your dog picks up on and translates into more negative energy. So before heading out the door, calm it down first by a click of your fingers so you have its attention, then speak the command word. Make it sit or stay, or whatever word you would prefer. When the dog has calmed down, make sure you head out the door first, then the dog behind you. Make that the drill: you first, the dog next.


• Have no fear when you are out there with your dog and you see another dog or person coming. Just hold it on short leash such that its head is just high enough as to walk straight. Let your mind focus on other things, not the walk, to help you walk calmly and normally. After a few situations like this, it may be ready to sniff at other dogs and talk in their own language.


• Dogs express their reaction to situations differently than humans. When it barks agitatedly at somebody at your door, it is simply protecting its territory. The guest at the door is not part of its familiar territory. The guest has to become familiar -- and slow, calm introductions have to be made. With the dog on leash but not doing anything else to excite it, have the guest come in slowly and let the dog get familiar with the new scent. It will connect that new scent to a harmless situation and the guest then becomes part of its familiar territory.


• Dogs need exercise not just for physical health but behavioral health. Unexercised dogs have a lot of unspent energy which translate into aggression, barking, and thus, difficulty for the owner to control. Exercise your dog by walking, running, playing, even swimming for breeds that love the water.

I took seriously each lesson learned from watching how the challenges were overcome and the happy outcome of each dog show episode. Challenged dog owners learned to change their own behavior and with that they gained confidence in controlling their dogs and in making them happy companions in or out of the house. Seriously, I wanted the actual experience and test the theories myself.

So maybe I could have a dog. I remember the first time the thought crossed my mind. It was after watching with my husband three episodes of Dog Whisperer -- in one sitting. The next time again, I thought aloud and asked him if could have a dog. Husband: No, dear. That was it. And then I started looking at the Pets for Adoption section of the morning paper. I was closely looking at the dog faces and their descriptions. Something I never did before. And I thought they were really creatures I could love. I just wanted one.

I was fast learning the language of dog training. But I still had to use the power of human language to persuade my husband to let me have a dog.

Finches Are Wonderful Pets

Why do people love having finches as pets? What makes them unique? A few of the reasons could be how beautiful they are to look at and how entertaining they are to watch. They are also very easy to keep and look after, which is a great benefit. It is however important to know how.

Nowadays many of us have busy lives, we generally don't want a pet that takes up hours of our time; time we may not have. That's why these happy energetic little birds are perfect because as long as they have enough food and water they will be happy and content to fly around their cage entertaining themselves.

For those who don't have a busy life and have the time having finches as pets is also great because of their energy and personality traits. Some breeds of finches are quieter than others but when they do sing it's always pleasant to listen to.

Finches are generally independent and don't always bond with people, although it is possible with some species overtime. The benefit of this is that they won't feel lonely if left for certain periods of time. This is one of the reasons for their popularity, especially amongst people who want to own a pet that will be fine without them always being there.

The main thing about having finches as pets is maintaining their living environment, whether it is a cage or aviary. Changing their water and leaving enough food for them, changing any accessories to different places in the cage to give them variety, and cleaning out the bottom of the cage to keep their home healthy and keep them happy.

As long as you remember the main things; food, water, cage cleaning, and also trimming your finches nails, you shouldn't have too any problems. Other things can be learned along the way, there are resources in the form of ebooks, web searches and pet stores.

Although finches are independent pets they are very sociable within their own groups so it would be a good idea to get two or more. A male and female will probably breed more frequently so it is recommended that you keep only females. Some experts on finches recommend groups of six or more.

Finches come in a wide variety; such as the Zebra Finch, the Gouldian Finch and the Society, or Bengalese, Finch. They are all beautiful to look at and energetic with their own personalities, yet some species share certain common behaviour traits.

For example, some finches are more aggressive while others are more timid, some are louder while others are quieter. In the end it is up to you to find a species of finch that suits your personality and will make you happy.

Owning finches as pets will be one of the most rewarding experiences you ever have. They are fun, energetic, hardy, independent, and beautiful to look at. They come in a wide range of colours and patterns, and are a wonderful addition to any bird lover's household.

Green Lipped Mussel For Our Pet's Arthritis

A few years ago scientific studies have discovered that we can offer green lipped mussel for pets suffering from joint pains caused by arthritis. Since the 1960's scientist have conducted numerous experiments and research to learn more about the benefits human beings can get from the intake of green lipped mussels. These shellfish have since been known to be very beneficial to our health, especially for those of us who suffer joint pain from arthritis.

Historically, it is documented that locals of New Zealand are known to have no reported cases of arthritis. This fact is widely for the reason that green lipped mussels are a huge part of their daily diet, as claimed by the natives themselves. Since it has been no less than a miracle food for humans, we can safely say that there are also great advantages of green lipped mussel for pets.

Animal lovers all over the world can ascertain that there is a natural and effective way to treat their pets' arthritis. To be able to determine if your pet dog or cat is suffering from some kind of physical ailment, you have to be observant of your pet's behavior.

Your pet will not walk up to you and say "Hey boss, I'm not feeling so hot and I think you need to take me to the vet." If your animals are not as giddy as they used to be, or seem to be down in the dumps, then you know that it's time to visit Dr. Doolittle. We must always rely on a doctor to make a proper diagnosis. Find out if arthritis is what's causing the problem.

Tip: Slow mobility could be an indicator that your animal is suffering from joint pains.

Assuming that your pet has been diagnosed with arthritis (or some other kind of inflammation causing pain), then you must know that green lipped mussel for pets, as it is for humans, is great as a natural anti-inflammatory treatment. There are many reported cases of animals regaining their mobility, and relieved of their suffering from pains caused by arthritis.

The cool thing about all this is that you can get green lipped mussels in different forms. I would recommend getting green lipped mussel powder since it is easier to give to pets. You don't have to forcefully pry open your poor pet's mouth until a capsule or tablet is literally shoved down its throat. You can just easily sprinkle it onto your pet's food, and wait for the magic to happen. Rest assured that your pet is now on its way to feeling more comfortable and becoming healthier.

It Is Possible to Give Glucosamine to Dogs Without An Incident?

Dogs are "man's best friend" but it is not always easy to find out whether something is wrong with them. They do not speak and therefore you have to monitor their behavior in order to make an accurate diagnosis. Where the animal is beginning to slow down then you need to consider the possibility that it may be suffering from dysplasia or osteoarthritis. Statistics indicate that up to a third of dogs and cats have some form of osteoarthritis. Therefore it is important to understand the function and limitations of glucosamine.

1. Try to identify the symptoms before they escalate: You will know that there is a problem if the dog has difficulty walking or playing. Stairs are particularly problematic for arthritic pets. If the pet is falling behind when walking then other structural damage might be created. General lethargy should be investigated. A limp might be a bit more than the dog playing up. The dog affected will display signs of pain when touched. With the correct use of glucosamine you can reduce some of these symptoms.

2. Remember that animals have a higher pain threshold than human beings: By the time your pet shows sign of pain, the condition will have progressed very far. Therefore you need to take corrective action fairly quickly. It is also important to note that dogs do not experience placebo effects. If you see a change in the animal after taking glucosamine then you know that things are working well. Most pets respond well to this type of treatment as long as it is applied correctly.

3. What are the proven effects of glucosamine on dogs? This medication is a dietary supplement which rehabilitates the animal's joints. It is also a preventative measure in as much as it can tackle problems before they escalate. Within two weeks of administering the medication there will be a marked improvement in the health of the animal in question. The body already has reserves of the element in the synovial fluids and cartilage. Therefore you will be merely topping up. There are anti inflammatory benefits that are associated with the medication.

4. The correct administration of the medication: You have to find the right type including HCL, sulfate and 2KCL. Make sure that the product is GMP certified. Take note of the daily dosage and the administration method. There may be additional ingredients which might affect the dog. Calculate the costs and see whether there are savings to be made.

The level of glucosamine which you use for your pet will depend on the conditions that are prevalent. You will have the twin objectives of reducing discomfort and preventing further escalation. Monitor the progress of the animal that you are looking after.

Gouldian Finches Are Spectacular!

These beautiful finches are splendidly colored finches. The colors on their backs are gray, red, or orange heads, blue or green, whereas underneath the colors are purple, white, or yellow. Sometimes they almost appear to be unnatural because their colors are so vivid.

The black-headed (Poephila gouldiae), the red-headed (Poephila mirabilis) and the yellow-headed (Poephila armitiana) are three varieties that are naturally-occurring in color. These are the color varieties that are generally recognized, but there can be any number of color combinations derived from these basic colorations -- including blue and yellow-bodied mutations.

In my opinion, they are one of the most colorful birds in the world. As in many species of birds, the coloration of the male Gouldian Finch is much more brilliant than that of the female. The male also has a noticeably longer center tail feather, giving him lots to boast about. An added feature is that only the males sing, and some better than others.

They come from the northern region of the Australian tropics. Unfortunately, since the 1960's, Australia has banned the exportation of animals from the country. Again unfortunately, the they are endangered in their natural habitat. This does not mean, however, that they aren't plentiful in other areas and easy to find.

Gouldian Finches are much more difficult to care for and breed than their heartier cousins, the Zebra and the Society Finches. I certainly wouldn't recommend them for the novice bird owner who may have little or no experience with captive finches.

I have found that these finches, like many other types of finches, do not like to be petted or held. That says to me that those who would like a pet bird, one they can easily finger tame, should realize these aren't the right birds for them.

Like the rest of the finches, Gouldian Finches are social and should be kept in one or more pairs. Also, since they are easily disrupted by frequent changes in their housing environment or by movement of their cage, you should find the perfect place to put them and leave them there. The reasoning behind that is that when they undergo frequent stress, it can eventually lead to weakening in the their resistance to disease. A happy finch is a healthy finch.

These little birds are very active. Whether they are in a cage or an aviary, they need the largest flying space out of any other finch species. Even though they are between five and five and a half inches in size, they need a minimum flying space of about twenty inches.

Their cages can either be metal or wooden and the space between cage bars is never greater than one-half inch. This is to prevent injury and escape. Brass cages are not recommended because of the potential toxic qualities. However, most cages that are brass in color are not actually made of brass.

Revulcanized Vs Bonded Crumb Horse Stall Mats

When making the investment in rubber flooring for your horse stable, be sure that you are purchasing the best product for the job. At first thought, you may assume that a horse mat is a horse mat and it doesn't matter what one you get, but on closer examination, there are a number of important factors to consider when choosing the best mat for your stalls. Some of these include: revulcanized vs. straight edge vs. interlocking mats?

There are a number of reasons why revulcanized rubber is superior to bonded crumb rubber when it comes to stall flooring. Here are 6 reasons why you should choose revulcanized rubber flooring for most horse flooring applications:

1. Polyurethane bonded mats can absorb animal fluids while revulcanized mats do not absorb moisture
2. Animal fluids can cause the polyurethane binder to deteriorate creating wear spots as the crumb flakes away, revulcanized matting does not have this problem
3. Animal fluids trapped in the bonded crumb mats can cause bacteria and foul odors
4. Revulcanized rubber flooring is more durable and more resilient than polyurethane bonded rubber flooring
5. Revulcanized mats will not curl, cold flow or change shape like polyurethane bonded mats can when under the temperatures and pressures of normal use
6. Revulcanized mats are made by chemically bonding the rubber under extreme pressure and heat to create the most durable and dense mat possible, while polyurethane bonded mats are glued and pressed under moderate pressure.

On the plus side for polyurethane bonded crumb mats, they typically do not have as much of the rubber odor as the revulcanized rubber mats do.

It is important to remember that companies that are selling bonded crumb mats will not advertise them as such. Remember to ask if the mats are revulcanized when getting a price. Some companies will respond to this by saying, "Yes, these are recycled rubber mats", however this is not the same thing. Visually you can tell the difference between the two by the surface. When you look closely at a bonded crumb mat, you can see that it looks like bits of crumb rubber glued together. Revulcanized rubber mats have a smooth, non-porous surface.

When comparing pricing, be sure to consider the product life, the shipping cost (this can be high for these heavy products), and the health of your horse and workers.

When making the investment in stall flooring, be sure to choose a product that will give you years of life with no headaches. We stand behind our quality matting products with a solid warranty. Join the many happy customers that have made Treadall their choice for heavy duty rubber mats.

Treadall offer sells both revulcanized rubber mats and polyurethane bonded rubber mats among other specialty flooring products across North America. Our full range of products include: horse stall mats, rubber horse arena footing, foaling stall mats, breeding mats, button top and perforated wash stall mats, arena dust control solutions and more.

Vision - Animals Vs Humans

As the "superior" living creature on earth, human beings take their amazing and miraculous five senses for granted and also often forget to stop and think about the animals who share their world and how each animal's senses work and affect his life and ours. Overall, animals see, smell, taste, feel and ear in accordance with what they need in order to best survive. For human beings, the same rule applies, except, that we have the incredible ability to be able to sometimes repair or compensate for the damage done to or deterioration of one or more of these senses. Sight is a great example of this. In essence, we use it to keep us out of harm's way, just as animals do; except that their harsh living conditions ensure that they have different visual needs to those of ours.

For decades we have been taught that dogs and cats are colorblind. Recent research has destroyed these myths and explained that dogs and cats cannot see certain colors; yet they see others perfectly. However, in contrast to humans, dogs and cats have excellent peripheral vision and superb night vision.

When it comes to goats, their square pupils are the focus of most attention, with people not realizing that this is not the most impressive point regarding their vision. In fact, the most impressive is that they can see at a 330 degree angle in comparison to humans who can only see at around a 185 degree angle.

Moving to the wild, horses, zebras and other such mammals have eyes which actually point sideways so that they can see peripherally. This gives them a far better chance to escape from predators; yet also gives them the disadvantage of a blind-spot directly in front of their noses. They also mostly see the world in shades of grey. In contrast to humans who see two images as one merged vision, these animals always see two separate images.

Bees and insects are really interesting where sight is involved. They see the world as a sort of mosaic owing to eyes which are made up of anything from ten to 30,000 tiny lenses, each one giving a different image to the overall picture that they see. When it comes to what colors they can see, this differs according to each insect. For example, butterflies can apparently see more colors than humans can; while bees cannot see the color red and mostly only see yellow, green and blue. The interesting thing about bees is that they are able to see ultraviolet light - a level of sight to which humans cannot even desire to reach.

Birds can also see this ultraviolet light, as well as many more colors than humans. Researchers also say that birds see color far more vividly than humans do. In the case of birds of prey, their binocular vision is excellent, and so they can spot prey from thousands of feet away.

Snakes have long been thought to have no or very low vision and operate according to smell. This is incorrect. In general they see worst before they shed their skin and best just after but snakes also have two sets of eyes - one for day use and one for night use and they use both. The difference is that snakes see things according to movement and so will often not notice, or pay attention to a motionless object. On the other hand, they have the ability to pick up infrared heat signals from warm objects.

The list is endless with each animal having its own special visual ability. At the end of the day, however, the comparison of animals to humans ends at the point of visual loss. When a wild animal loses its ability to see, the rules of the wild usually hint at near death by a more superior animal. There is no room for weakness in the wild. Human beings however, have developed methods for improving weak sight and treating damaged eyes.

Feathers for Bird Nests - Fun With Swallows

Watching swallows grab feathers out of the air provides hours of off-line entertainment.

By providing the right kind of feathers in the right way, you can easily attract swallows. Every spring, swallows search for the best soft materials to improve the comfort and warmth of their nests. Soft and downy feathers, a finger-length long are the perfect size and swallows get excited when they find a good source.

Air-born feathers are best although swallows will sometimes land to pick up a feather. But they usually grab feathers off the ground while flying since these birds are not efficient hoppers or walkers. If you scatter feathers on the ground for the birds, just make sure that the area is even, free from obstructions, and has plenty of space for the birds to make their approach and exit flights Swallows are very cautious when they pick feathers off the ground in flight. Several practice approaches serve to help the bird to know if a feather grab is safe. This makes sense as they are zooming down beak-first at 20 miles an hour to pick up a feather. They are safer grabbing feathers in the air.

Here is the most fun part: launch feathers into the air from a ten-foot, small-diameter plastic pipe. Place a feather at one end and blow it into the air from the other end like a dart gun. After a few days, the swallows catch on that airborne feathers are being offered when they see the pipe raised. Time your launches so the wind is right and the swallows are nearby. With the correct wind, launching feathers by hand works, but usually the plumes drift quickly and disappointingly to the ground.

The swallow's mouths make a small snap sound when closing or attempting to close on a feather.

The amazing aerialists must learn that the best way to fly with a big feather is to carry it curved under the body, shaft-first. So feathers are often dropped mid-air to change to the best position. When this happens the feather may get seized by another swallow and a chase is on.

Barnyard fowl are a good source of feathers. If you know a farm with chickens, geese, or turkeys, have them save the feathers. Then take care of the feathers. Barnyard birds may have parasites like mites. Place future swallow nest feathers in a freezer for 48 hours, remove for a couple of days and freeze again. This kills adult parasites the first freeze, lets any remaining eggs hatch when the feathers are out of the freezer, and kills them during the second freeze.

What Is An Anvil and What Is It Used For?

Most of modern civilization's early steel products were born on the top of an anvil. There are many detailed writings, books, publications, and online videos detailing what an anvil is and what a quality anvil should look like. To cover the entire history would take volumes, but we will discuss the primary uses and how to find a high quality anvil.

What are the Different Types of Anvils

It is without question, the anvil has many unique forms applicable to the intended use for a particular anvil. Blacksmith anvils differ from Farrier anvils, and both differ from jewelers anvils. American anvils differ from European anvils, but they all perform the same basic task as a work station to form metal. Most anvils have a flat surface on top(face), and one or both ends have a rounded cone, the supporting bottom is called the base. The flat surface is used primarily for flattening the metal, and the rounded end is used to form a variety of shapes including horse shoes.

How Are Anvils Made

At one time the Europeans held claim to the best anvils in the world. Today, America is clearly the leader in the production of the highest quality anvils - being made of ductile steel which is then poured into molds. In times past, they were forged with hammers, and typically came in two pieces. These two pieces were called the top horn and face (flat surface), and the base. Upon completing the two sections, they were then forged together to form the complete assembly. Technology today allows us to measure the purity of the ductile steel so that the chemical composition is consistent throughout. Combined with the advances in heat treating, a through-hardened anvil, poured of ductile steel, is the highest quality you can buy.

One of the largest United States anvil manufacturers, JHM Anvils, still pours all of its anvils in a foundry in Texas. Every pour is measured for accuracy, and then they are sent to be machined. Upon completion of machining the base and top face, they are sent to a premier heat treat facility in Peoria, Illinois, to be through-hardened. They then return to the plant where they are ground, finished and painted. These are considered the highest quality anvils in the world for the farrier industry. Most of the anvils produced by JHM are focused on the farrier, otherwise known as a horseshoer.

3 Love Lessons From Your Animals

Have you ever experienced being loved unconditionally?

Without reserve or embarrassment, from someone who doesn't care about your weight, whether you have makeup on, if you're having a bad hair day, or have issues, woundings or baggage? They don't worry about whether you had a bad day at the office, had a argument with someone, or are hurting?

In our society, as we grow up, we received many subtle and not so subtle messages about being bad, how we get the wrong answer sometimes, and we suffer many painful and embarrassing experiences all of which make us feel we're unworthy of being loved. In self defense, we learn to hide our hearts so we can fit in and conform so we can try to feel loved.

This is a very hurtful pattern that often continues throughout our lives. Until we learn to face our demons and can make new decisions about our worth, value and ability to be loved. It can be hard to find a safe, non threatening place to really feel love and let that in to help heal our hearts.

Fortunately for animal lovers, our animals are here to teach us about how it feels to be loved unconditionally. They demonstrate day after day what it means to care about someone without fear of rejection, to be in relationship with others without judgment, how it really feels to be embraced and loved with a whole heart, and offer the experience of being welcomed exactly as we are.

Who better to teach us about unconditional love than a puppy, kitten, or horse?

I was recently speaking with an environmental engineer, a scientist and researcher dedicated to helping corporations reduce and eliminate their toxic emissions so they leave a smaller footprint on the planet. This handsome, grey haired gentleman was used to being logical, scientific, and didn't show or share his emotions easily.

But he started telling me about his dog, how she greeted him with exuberant joy every time he came home. He commented that his wife and children had never welcomed him like she did. And he had tears in his eyes as he reconnected with how it felt to be greeted with such love, acceptance, and a wide open joyful heart after a hard day at work. It lifted his cares and troubles, and helped him feel whole again.

Our wonderful animal teachers and companions are in many ways our best friends, our partners, and are the ones who know us better than anyone else. They often choose to spend their lives with us helping us heal, loving us when we're sick or sad... Helping us in every way they can, they share our life experiences, and continually demonstrate what unconditional love really means.

Animals contribute to each of us and our planet in so many ways. The wild ones keep the circle of life strong, each one contributing in their way to everyone else. The native people knew that in order to stay healthy personally, and within their community, they must stay connected with the animals, treating them with respect and honor, listening and learning from them on many levels.

1. Take a little time out each and every day to listen to and respect your animal teachers. Pay attention to what they are telling you.

2. If they are 'out of balance', acting out in harmful or destructive ways, then notice where in your own life you may be out of balance or are in congruent within yourself.

3. If they are offering their unique viewpoints, sharing love or joy or simply being themselves, then flow with them with gratitude and honesty. Open your heart and let their love and light shine into all the dark corners of your soul and spirit, body and mind.

This is the gift that our animals give us every day if we let them, if we take time to connect with our hearts, feel our gratitude and appreciation that they are in our lives.

We rediscover our connection with the planet and our own Divine nature when we reconnect with other beings - and doing that makes us better humans.

Tips on How to Care for Your Aged Horse

Horses just like us humans age at different rates, chronological age doesn't always match the aging process. With careful management and a little insight the veteran horse can live a longer and more productive life.

Protect your veteran horse with good nutrition, older horses, need much more protein and fat than a middle-aged horse, they also need access to good-quality fibre. Make sure the hay they have is of good quality and not too mature, older horses cannot chew their food efficiently. Good quality beet pulp, alfalfa pellets or complete pellets for the older horse, add oil and make into a mash, it's easier to eat and digest. Keep a vigilant eye on your horse's weight, obese horses are at risk from all kinds of disorders, as is the horse that is underweight. The effects that diet has on our own health is indisputable, it is much the same for the horse.

Keep an eye on your horses teeth, any kind of pain associated with the mouth, will discourage a horse from eating. They should have regular check-ups with a qualified veterinarian, or horse dentist. Twice a year is recommended for the aged horse. Add more water to their feed to prevent choke.

Have the farrier check your horse's hooves on a regular basis; poor hoof care is a risk in the aged horse, so your farrier should be able to alert you to any changes.

If your aged horse is still able, and happy to go for a short ride, then exercise helps keep them toned, and interested. Turning an aged horse out is highly recommended, you will increase their interest in life and help keep them mobile. If they suffer from any of the degenerative joint disease, then small doses of Bute can be added to their feed, check with your vet if you are uncertain.

A regular worming and vaccination programme is as essential to the aged horse, as it is to the younger horse. Be pro-active; plan your dates in advance.

Comfort is key in maintaining and managing the older horse. Keep your eye on the weather, older horses' soon lose condition if they are turned out in poor weather, a decent rug and access to a field shelter is a must for the older horse. The same rules apply for warmer weather, access to shade and clean water is essential, a summer rug can help to keep horse fly bites at bay.

If you see any changes in your horse, for example, rapid weight loss, diarrhea, depressed appetite, or he just doesn't seem right to you, then call the vet. There is no reason why your horse cannot live to a ripe old age, be vigilant, use your intuition and watch his behaviour, keep him/her comfortable and enjoy your time together.

Pet Travel Toys: Road Trip Edition

If your pets are anything like my dogs, they get very excited when they get to go for a ride. I open up the car door and they jump right in without any prompting, tails wagging happily and smiles on their faces. But if we're headed out for a trip that's going to last longer than an hour, I inevitably get the "Are we there yet?" whines and whimpers and panting. I realized early on that I needed to find something to keep them more comfortable and occupied when we're ramming the roads.

So if the story of my dogs is familiar to you or if your pets aren't road warriors right from the get-go, here are some great toys to bring along with you on your next car ride to keep the boredom at bay and pet travel more enjoyable:

Chew Bones: If your dogs gravitate toward chew bones at home, bringing a few with you on your trip will provide them with a sense of comfort (as well as give them something to do). There are a ton of great bones out there to pick from, especially from Nylabone. Some are strictly for play and others are edible. If your dog doesn't get carsick, an edible bone that he has to work on for awhile may be a nice distraction (for you) and a yummy treat (for him).

Ropes: Got more than one furbaby? Something that the two of them can play with together (depending on whether they're in a carrier or in a restraint) are some rope toys. Rope toys are way better than just boring old rope. You can get them in the shape of animals, you can get them with dental chews on both ends, and you can even get rope rings! Nothing passes the time on a road trip like some tug-of-war.

Kongs: Kongs have been around for awhile but they've really grown in popularity and are the hot toys "on the block" - they're a huge hit among the four-legged crowd (dogs and cats, too!). There are dozens of different types of Kongs but the Classic Kong will really do the trick in the car. Dogs love the chewable red exterior and the added bonus is the middle where you can stash some tasty treats. What dog doesn't want a chew toy that also dispenses food? And here's a pro tip: put all-natural peanut butter in the middle of the Kong and freeze it until you're ready to leave. This will provide hours of enjoyment in the car as she works on her frozen Kong.

Cat Toys: We've been giving a lot of love to our canine friends, but what about our dear felines? Although cats are a bit more restricted from moving around while being in a carrier (versus buckled into seat restraints without the need of a carrier like some dogs), they can still play with some fun toys in there. There are plenty of funky cat ball toys to bat around, and they can come filled with catnip. Some cats might like their toys in the shape of a mouse. Others might just like the comfort of a plush toy. Toys like this can provide something that cats can divert their attention to during the long drive and calm them down if they tend to get stressed out.

Most of us enjoy a good road trip every now and again and it's even more fun when you bring your pets. But it's important to make sure that they're having as good of a time as we are. Bringing along a few toys to keep them occupied and help them feel less anxiety-ridden will help pass the time and make traveling with your pet a real pleasure. You never know - a pet that doesn't normally like car rides might be more inclined to jump in that car at the site of a treat to play with. It works for my dogs!

The Communication Factor Between Horse and Man

Communication is just as important to horses as it is to humans. Horses have a desire to be able to communicate; there is also a need to fulfill that desire since it will fill a void within their lives that is also common to mankind.

Once that you do realize that there is an avenue of communication that can be established between you and the horse you will start to realize that the horse has the capacity of having a thought pattern. Next you will start to move from a one-sided conversation thought pattern to one that will allow interaction from both sides and a relationship will start to develop.

Being able to understand that there are structured thought patterns that can be developed by a horse and that they are also capable of communicating with you; it will be realized that the method of communication is quite simple and easy to understand.

To properly understand how a horse communicates you have to be willing to accept that the horse does not have the ability to reason, in plain terms, they can not figure out that there is more than one way to do the same thing. All that they do understand is that they have a specific method or way of accomplishing a task and that is the only way that it can be done. This is the precise point that explains why you cannot deviate in any manner when you ask the horse to accomplish any task. Horses are extremely structured in their society and following that specific pattern, step-by-step, calm them and allow them to understand what is happening.

Our ability of being able to understand that there are many different ways to accomplish the same end result, thus being able to change as well as adapt has allowed us to expand and grow our mental ability. Our ability to reason has placed us in a situation that we take this ability for granted; for since it is second nature and happening without thought we feel that other creatures that we come in contact with can accomplish the same results. In fact the exact opposite is the truth, this is one of the unique features of our species that has placed us above the others. Thus, our ability to reason along with our memory that does allow us to realize that we can file away and categorize past experiences; while allowing us to be able to refer back to specific memories for use at another time.

Although the horse does have a memory, it is somewhat limited in relationship to our own. It has been my experience that the memory of the horse does not include the ability to file experiences away and be able to pull upon that experience for reference at a future date. What the horse does have is a memory that notes experiences, but without the use of any timeline, that is to say that there is no distinction as to how many times an experience was good and how many times that same situation was bad. It remembers the initial experience as either good or bad, therefore every time that the horse is put into that situation where that memory is called upon; it is either good or bad.

I have found that bad experiences can be altered and have the horse start to respond in a favorable fashion. This depends on how the foundation was laid and all experiences from that point on were built upon either a good or bad foundation. In order to make changes in a horse's response to a particular situation you need to tear down what has been built and rebuild the foundation making it a good experience. This goes back to the fact that the horse feels that there is only one way to accomplish what you are asking them to do. So it is better to start out understanding how the mind of the horse does operate before you get started.

It is now becoming known that the human mind goes through various stages of development and when these stages of development happen there is a great surge in the learning ability, the creativity and overall development of individual skills. I believe that horses go through various stages during their development that will allow them to be able to increase their ability to comprehend, learn and develop their motor skills as well. It is our responsibility to watch for and make full advantage of these various stages of development that the horse goes through.

The mental state of the rider/handler is one of the greatest determining factors in the relationship of the horse. You, with an understanding of equine communication, can accomplish a great deal of progress in a relatively short period of time. This can happen in the saddle or on the ground.

The overall concept that needs to be understood is that the rider or the handler needs to be in total control through the projection of both confidence and trust. For once that you have developed the initial trust between you and the horse, the horse will continually turn to you for guidance and reassurance in uncertain times. It is at this point that the horse will start to turn to you and allow you to guide them to the next level. Confidence will develop and build within you as you start to change your outlook and method of operating around and on top of your horse. With the understanding of the communication method of the horse will come the confidence and with the confidence in place the trust will start to build and grow. This will change the mood on and around the horse to be one of calm that will allow the horse to realize that you are no longer something to be constantly watched and analyzed. You are now a friend that has allowed friendship and confidence to build the bridge of trust.

Here is where we need to stress consistency and confidence of the handler that will allow the horse to become consistent and confident as they progress through the process of building a relationship. If you are confident and consistent the horse will be the same. They are looking for the right path to follow and they do want to please you. It is in their nature to want to please and be a member of the herd. If you are confident and consistent, the path to obtaining the necessary trust will be shorter and the relationship with the animal will be built upon a stronger foundation. Once that the foundation is put down and is solid, the building of the relationship will be stronger, more level and will lead to a life-long friendship. There are no leaders in this relationship, only members of the herd having specific jobs to perform. Everyone pulls their own weight and does the tasks that are required of their earned position within that herd.

Introduction of any new horse into a predetermined group of horses and people will start the process all over again; there will be a jockeying of positions and responsibilities of herd members. This can be from the new horse being higher or lower in the overall picture of the herd. Don't forget that there will be an adjustment period any time that a new horse is added to the herd. You must remember that the herd social structure has to follow the required ritual steps that are carved in stone and do not waver. Here is why consistency has to be always foremost and present when dealing with any member of the herd. Consistency breeds confidence due to an unwavering method of accomplishment. This refers the horse's inability to accept change readily and that when change is introduced to quickly they usually react with a "flight" instinct and look for the easiest way out of the situation. We have the ability to pre-judge a situation, its outcome and the reaction that will most likely be received, so it is in our best interest to use that ability each and every chance that we get.

The Physiology of Fear

Fear is a factor in daily life for both the horse and the rider/handler; both horse and rider/handler can conquer it. It has to be done in a manner that both can understand and is best accomplished by the rider/handler taking the initial step and then guiding the horse through the process of calming, starting with relaxing and finally through the projection of trust and confidence. I do need to explain that both the horse and the handler can experience fear, but humans have the ability to reason and then to conquer the fear that has become foremost at the time. We do so by analyzing the point that we at first sense the fear and then process the memory of such an item and then determine if it is worth fearing or not. That is how we analyze fear as human beings, now for the horse's answer ~ I have got to run away! What we need to accomplish is to analyze the fear factor and how both the horse and the rider/handler respond to the fear factor and how it can be controlled.

Most riders that get have problems with a horse over fear compound the problem through the use of their body language to the horse. Let's say that the horse becomes startled at some object, the horse will stop and take a good hard look at the specific item in question, at this point they are waiting for your guidance. It is in the next few seconds of time and the actions that you do and how that is transferred into body language that will determine how the horse will react to your actions. The sudden stopping of the horse has startled you and you are just as unsure as the horse is about the specific item that startled them, you then tense up through most, if not all, of your body, you grab hold of the reins and start to pull back on the bit, your legs clamp around the body of the horse and your mind is racing at the speed of cars running around a NASCAR race track.

Your actions have told the horse the following things to do:

1. Your body tensing up means that you are fearful and that there may be a greater threat than they have found after all you are supposed to be in charge here and if you are ready to run away, the horse will certainly not want to stick around.

2.Your next action was the grabbing of the reins and pulling back on the bit, this lets them know that you are wanting to stop and stop now, no second guessing here and then with the increased pressure of the bit it becomes painful and the horse now has pain in addition to fear to contend with.

3.Once that you legs clamp around the body of the horse it is the same as if someone came up behind you and grabbed you around the waist when you were not expecting it, you go straight into the air and scream, it is no different with the horse except with the inability to process all of this information at one time the horse will revert back to the instinctual thing to do, run away.

It is at this point that you have lost total control of the situation and there is no way to get control, in fact the horse will now bolt to get out of there so fast that the only concern is their preservation and they feel that they cannot depend on you for guidance at this point so you will most likely end up on the ground and the horse far away from you.

The horse does not need to react this way when it becomes startled by anything. In fact if you have the trust of the animal and project confidence at the same time the horse will turn to you with all of its ability and ask you what it should do. And it can be handled in the following manner, same situation only this time we interject a team effort.

The horse has been startled by anything and stops to look at it and then tries to determine what it is. Again it is the first few seconds that are crucial to the total outcome of the potential accident waiting to happen.

1.Once that the horse does stop you will feel the entire body of the horse draw into your seat of the saddle, at this point it is looking to you for the confidence and the guidance as to what it should to in this situation.

2.You MUST remain calm for the sake of both of you. DO NOT tense up, relax, remember you are the one that is in charge ~ so act like it.

3. It would be best to give the horse a loser rein at this point and allow them to see that you have no fear of the item they are startled over, let the horse have a minute to realize that the whole situation meant nothing to you and that there was no need to get so upset.

As you learn to be this way, the horse will build the trust and confidence in your abilities and the fear factor will tend to reduce. Now it may be there with other people who have the tendency to do as the first rider did and tense up, but once that you understand that you can control the situation through your body language to the horse, the better the horse will be in situations that need understanding and positive actions.

Next we must understand that the fear that is in the mind of the rider/handler is one that is transferable to the horse through the use of body language. There are times that the horse shows much more compassion to man than man shows to the horse, there are also times that the horse will not venture into territory that it does know is unsafe, but mankind has to show its superiority and venture in and then have to confront the situation that they create.

The rider/handler can learn quite a bit from just watching and noting a horse's reaction and response to any situation that it does come up against on a daily basis. You can buy all the books you want on the behavior of the horse and you will never learn as much as when you take the time to observe and learn from the horse in their natural settings. Take the time to watch them in the field both alone and within the herd atmosphere. What a horse does on their own is quite a bit different that what a horse will do interacting with other members of their herd.

One other point that needs to be brought out here is reactions that horses have are confused with what we feel they are. Let's take the example of a horse moving away from you, they can move in one of three ways. First they might try to walk over the top of you, with no regard for your safety that is because they have no respect for you. Second, they may push away from you, that is a fear reaction and are just trying to get away form the danger. Third, they back away from you and this is bad news for anyone that has built a relationship with a horse since they are taking their trust and the position that you have been granted away from you.

Pet Dander Air Purifier - 5 Must-Have Features for Effectiveness

If you live with a warm-blooded pet such as a dog, cat, bird, ferret, bunny, hamster, all of the above or some combination there of, you've got pet dander. And you'll have it for as long as you have your pets. Want more good news?

Nothing can completely eliminate the dander (don't give up yet), but the right air purifier can not only reduce the levels in your air, but keep them low. And low enough to make a significant difference in your air quality. Here are 5 features that will indicate an effective cleaner.

Multiple Filtration Process---With all of the different particulates and smells that pets bring, an effective cleaner needs to have a number of different types of filters that can deal with all that is in your air. One filter can't possibly eliminate everything. Selecting a purifier that has the ability to eliminate both gaseous and particulate pollutants is both cost effective and efficient

HEPA Technology---The best and safest type of filter for removal of airborne particles, regardless of who generates them, is the high efficiency particle filter. HEPA is simply an acronym made by using the first letters of those 4 words.

By definition must have proven to be able to eliminate 99,997 out of every 10,000 airborne particulates that are.3 microns or greater in size, with a micron being defined as one millionth of a meter.

Steel Casing---Steel is the best material for the casing of an air cleaner to be made. It's more expensive material than plastic, but it often means the difference between clean air and polluted air.

When the motor heats up a casing made of plastic, it often creates fumes that are worse than the pollutants you are trying to move. By choosing a cleaner made of steel you insure that off-gassing will not occur because of motor heat.

Pro-rated Filter Warranty---This is a huge clue about how successful you can expect a cleaner to be. If the manufacturer is willing to offer a guarantee on the filter, it is an indication that they have designed a filter that is both effective and long lasting.

They couldn't stay in business very long and continue to offer that type of warranty unless they were sure that it really works.

Healthy By-Product---Just like throwing the baby out with the bath water is unthinkable, so is cleaning the air with technology that ultimately harms humans and pets.

With that said, avoid cleaners that use any amount of ozone. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency has stated that any level of ozone emission is unsafe. The only by-product that your cleaner should emit is air that is fresh and clean.

Some wise soul said pets make a house a home. There was no mention of the dander. Choosing a pet dander air cleaner with these 5 features will make you home a healthier one for you and your pet.

Let the Horse Understand You

It is a known fact that horses do have a certain amount of intelligence and are able to make decisions that concern them. It is this ability that allows the horse to be able to sense what you are trying to get across to them, it is this same intelligence that allows them to make the decision whether to follow what you are asking them to do. The horse is a "flight or fight" animal and that means that they would rather run away than stand and fight, they will stand their ground and fight, but only if there is no other option. And, if you are asking them to do something that they are unsure of, or do not have the trust in you, then most likely they are not going to stay around. The reaction that you will receive comes from what and how you relate to the horse, be it on their back or on the ground. Some people have called it "feel"; I refer to it as "communication". The communication skills that I do refer to can be accomplished by direct contact with the horse or through the use of your body as a communication tool in an indirect or no contact method.

Once that you are able to understand and properly use these two methods of communication effectively you can control the mind and the body of the horse in a manner that will allow you to have the horse understand what you expect of them.

The mind of the horse operates differently from ours and has an unusual way of processing information, there are many factors and conditions that either help or harm the overall mental state of the horse. First, we must realize that there are certain limitations in dealing with the horse. They have little, if any, ability to reason. If you ask the horse to do something that is unknown to them, they cannot determine the safety factor of what you are asking them to do and if it will hurt them or not. Since the horse has limited reasoning ability it has to be taught that any safe action that can be done on the left side can also be accomplished on the opposite side. It is also important to remember that horses are prey animals, having eyes on either side of their heads. This gives them a greater range of vision, however, what they see on one side does not translate effectively to the other side. They are moving through two worlds of sight at all times. One of the most important points that we have to concede is that we must start to react as the horse does. We have to learn to look at things the way they do and start to realize that once that we start to look at things differently we will start to react differently. What we have to do is become more instinctual in our reactions to objects and situations. This will allow us to be able to successfully learn to properly communicate with horses at their own level.

The first step is to build a bridge of trust. Through your personal and total trust of the horse they will learn to trust you. The length of this step depends upon you and the horse. Just as you have your own personality, abilities and limitations, so does the horse. Here more than any other area you are rewarded for your patience and effort. Remember, you get out what you put into any project. If done correctly, every step that you take allows the horse to learn. Trust comes from within and you must be willing to enter the horse's world both mentally and physically, any indication of your holding back will slow down the entire process of building the bridge of trust.

Humans have developed into a vocal and pitch society where the horse still relies on the use of the body and other senses for communication. Once that you are willing to start using your body as well as your other senses and stop using your voice the faster you will start to build a lasting relationship and have a greater bond between you and the horse. As you become more proficient in using your body and senses as communication tools, you then become more aware of other things that went unnoticed before that time.

Concern for the comfort of the horse is the next step in the building of the bridge of trust. Any horse, just as in people, can be distracted from what is required when discomfort is involved. The best way to compare this is to think of your own self and the items that are comfortable to you, then realizing that the more comfortable that you are, the greater the accomplishments you are able to start and complete. Discomfort can be as distracting to accomplishments as comfort can be to accomplishment.

Any discomfort may be of such a degree that it is so concentrated that it is unable to accomplish any more than just getting one foot in front of the other. In fact the concentration and determination to eliminate that specific discomfort may be so great that you will become totally uncooperative and will do all you can to get it out of your life at that point in time.

There are two important factors to consider in the area of comfort; the care of the feet and legs, as well as the quality of the tack and equipment that you are using.

The care of the feet and legs are of primary importance, due to the fact that through correct care it will allow the horse to be able to move about in a comfortable manner. For what is done to the feet will affect each and every bone and joint, from the foot to the shoulder or the hip, and well beyond into the entire body. Remember, if our feet hurt we can relax, put up our feet or even take off our shoes. When a horse has an uncomfortable set of shoes on they must keep those shoes on until they are removed. This is one of the most overlooked areas of the training and understanding of the performance horse today. For the performance horse, be it any type, has a demanding pace of competitive training. When I do talk of a performance horse it is a horse that is used by a rider in any manner what so ever, they do not have to be in hunter/jumper training, cutting, endurance or any other specialized form of training, if you have a horse and you ride it, it is a performance horse. The proper foot care for your horse is a major maintenance factor that is as important as the regular changing of the oil in your automobile.

All too often the way to judge the quality of foot care is controlled by the cost factor. This brings to mind a particular situation that I was involved in a number of years ago. I was called to a new client's home to come and shoe their new horse. When I got there I found three horses at the house. I shod the horse that I had been called to do; upon completing that job I did ask if they would like to make another appointment for six weeks later. The answer was yes, my next response was if I should schedule enough time for all three of the horses at their home. To my surprise the answer was to schedule time for just the one horse. It appeared from talking to the owner that there were three different farriers doing work there. Each horse had its own farrier. The one horse they had got for $500 and didn't need a very good horseshoer since it was so cheep, the second horse was worth a little more money so it got a little better horseshoer and lastly the new horse was of the greatest value and demanded the best farrier that they could get. The point that I am trying to get across here is it does not matter what your horse costs, they all need good and regular hoof care, by trained professionals.

The second part of comfort is the quality of the tack and equipment goes back to what I was taught by my grandfather, and it was "You can always tell the level of the craftsman by the quality of the tools they choose". So, the quality of the tools that you chose predetermines how far you will go and how committed you are to your project, as well as how strong your belief is. For it is through your commitment to quality tack and equipment, as well as the overall comfort of the horse that will allow you to progress past the point that most people get to in the performance of any animal. Through this total commitment you will allow yourself to put the horse's needs above your own --- allowing you to get more from the horse through asking rather than demanding. I am not saying that you have to go out and buy any and all of the items that everyone says that you need to use in the care of your horse; all that is needed is some common sense. Analyze the situation, look at it as your horse would and then ask yourself if you would like that being done to you or even if you would like to have a specific task preformed on you. If it takes you more than two seconds to analyze and come up with an answer, most likely it will be the wrong answer. Learn to trust your instincts and allow yourself the freedom of being able to trust your own feelings.

The third area in building the bridge of trust is the mind of the horse. I have found it easiest to put it this way; within the horse is the learning ability of a two-year-old human child while at the same time you have to control the physical conditioned body of a college athlete. One of the more important points that I can instill within you is the fact that mankind is on a much higher mental level of ability than that of the horse. And, in realizing that one fact you can then understand that you have the ability to go down to the reasoning level of the horse. But, you can never hope to get the horse to your level of being able to understand. You have the ability to understand what the horse senses, calm the fear of the unknown and then guide them into what it is that you want them to accomplish.

Boxing Horses Over Long Distances

Plan your trip well in advance and be prepared for any pitfalls. The Horsebox should be safe and reliable. A full service should be done on the vehicle before your trip. The box should be big enough to take the weight and size of the horse, check the latest regulations; keep your horse safe and stay on the right side of the law. Have a tick list, check that:

Doors open fully, close and can be secured;

Windows fully open and close;

Brakes are in good working order;

Lights are in working order;

Vents fully open and close;

The floor needs to be fit for purpose and up to weight;

Tyres checked for pressure and fit for purpose, including the spare;

The jack, in case of a puncture is in the horsebox;

Making the horse feel safe, secure and calm, is important to both the horse and yourself, if the journey is to be a successful one. Make sure your horse loads and unloads in a clam manner well in advance of going on a long journey. Check with your vet that the horse is fit and well before making your journey.

You will need to think about hydration during transport, stocking a first aid kit, and feed. Make sure you have plenty of hay - probably enough to feed him throughout his trip and a few days into his stay. Depending on the time of year, and the turnout, it is always a good idea to take his rug, a spare halter, spare lead rope, spare buckets, bedding and last but not least a fire extinguisher.

Bandaging horse's legs as a means of protection on a short journey can be a benefit; on a longer journey it may cause sores

Standing for long periods take a massive amount of effort and energy, it is a constant balancing act for the horse. The amount of traffic on our roads means having to manoeuvre into and out of traffic, increasing speed, breaking and lane changes. Even with an excellent driver the horse will get tired.

A rough guide is to have a parking break every three to four hours, a minimum of twenty minutes will allow the horse to relax and "unlock" his legs. Check your horse carefully for any sign of stress, heat/cold and dehydration. Make any necessary adjustments. Offer the horse water at every stop and refill his hay net. Have a safe journey.

Blacksmiths: What Part Do They Play in Your Horse's Life and How Important Are They?

As you have heard me say before, I am old school and one of the old school sayings is "No feet, no horse." As you become more involved in the horse world, the more you will understand this saying. One reason is because if your horse is not trimmed properly or shod, (means putting shoes on your horse), properly, they will not put their feet down as they should which is supporting their body weight, and of course, they will start shifting their weight onto other areas that were not designed for this task such as tendons and ligaments. Horses with sore feet cannot perform very well. When a horse is moving and shifting his or her weight because of sore feet, we are talking about hundreds of pounds. Add the weight of a human being on their back, and you are headed for what could be a serious situation for the health of the horse. This in turn can cause a horse to become sore in one or more areas, and this soreness can become severe and take weeks or months to remedy after the horses' feet have been corrected.

Let me start at the very beginning. When a mare has a foal at her side, as you are teaching this new jewel in your life about being handled, teaching them to pick up their feet should be an important part of their schooling. As they learn to pick up their feet, then teach them to stand while you are picking out their feet. After weaning your foal, have a blacksmith come and start trimming their feet. If this individual has issues with conformation, now is the time to start the process. A blacksmith can look at your weanling's confirmation, watch the way they walk and move, and perhaps help them so that later in life their movements will be more efficient, causing less problems down the road. Waiting until a horse has completely developed and is considered an adult is not the best time to try and change their way of movement. Sometimes this can do more harm than good. Minor changes at this age and older is fine, but beyond that can sometimes get you and your horse into trouble, so be cautious.

If you have just acquired a new horse, make arrangements for a blacksmith to come and take a look at your horse's feet. Explain the newness of this horse, what your intentions are for this particular horse and you can discuss the options of either putting shoes on the horse or just leaving them "barefoot".

As you probably know, there are many different types of sports that involve horses. This in turn will involve a much more detailed type of shoeing. A race horse will need a very light shoe that will help them to grip the ground and insure firm footing. A reigning horse will need a shoe that will help them when they are doing their difficult sliding stops. A cutting horse will need a shoe that does not interfere with their extreme motions from side to side, at the same time, helps them from slipping and sliding. Dressage horses need a heavier shoe as they need to place their feet firmly and strongly onto the ground when in competition. Each sporting horse will have their own specific needs and requirements for shoeing. It is a very important part of their being able to perform to the best of their ability. Remember, a horse will follow the shoe on his or her foot. If the shoe is not put on properly, your horse will not move as they should.

Now, if you are using your horse for a very difficult and demanding sport, you may need at some point what is called "corrective shoeing". Sometimes performance horses, because of confirmation flaws, will interfere and start to develop problems such as hitting themselves or scalping themselves. Basically, they are damaging a part of their body, usually the opposite pastern, ankle or even their hock with their foot. A knowledgeable and experienced blacksmith can usually help a horse to overcome problems such as this. Make no mistake, especially when the stakes get higher with higher competition, a good blacksmith is worth their weight in gold. A great blacksmith goes far beyond that.

How do you find a good blacksmith? My suggestion is from word of mouth. If you are just starting with horses, find a large farm or stables and stop in and ask them what blacksmith they use. Usually, any horse person will be more than willing to help out a fellow horseman. Also, large tack shops or your local feed store can guide you in the right direction. If you get recommendations from several horsemen for a blacksmith that might be slightly higher than others in the area, be reluctant to look the other way. A few dollars now can save you hundreds if not thousands later. Good Luck!

Good Environment For Corn Snakes to Set Up

To keep a corn snake at home you would need a good environment set up. The size of the reptile environment is normally measured by the size of the snake, normally the length of the snake = the front and one side of the reptile habitat (3 ft snake = 2 ft x 1 ft reptile habitat).

Wooden reptile vivariums with glass front are best with objects placed in it for the snake to hide. Corn snakes are relatively small therefore you don't need large vivariums unless you have more than 1 snake. In your vivarium you will need a heat mat, water bowl, and a hiding place which will provide your corn snake with a feeling of security. The substrate on the floor of your vivarium or terrarium is very important preferred substrates are reptile bark or paper towels

Corn snakes got their name because they frequent corn sheds to feed on rats and mice in America. They will tolerate a variety of environmental conditions, but it is still important to provide the best living environment such as reptile vivariums which are ideal for keeping your snakes in; they provide a good living environment that will benefit the health and condition of your snake. The size of an average adult snake is 3.9 to 5.9 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m). They are docile by nature and are reluctant to bite and love being handled, which makes them the best beginner pet snake to own. They come in a beautiful variety of colours and patterns.

In the wild corn snakes live 6 to 8 years. In captivity they can live up to 23 years. They are a great pet for children and easy to look after. They are ground dwelling snakes, but can ascend from height if needed. Therefore in your reptile vivarium it is also good idea to provide a branch for climbing. Corn snakes cannot manufacture their own body heat, they have to rely on ambient temperature to raise or lower their internal core temperature. This means that they must have access to at least one area within the vivarium where they can warm themselves. This is achieved by installing an over head heat lamp with a metal reflector above one side of the vivarium to create a basking area or you can provide heat mats. Be careful do not use rocks, they can get to hot and your pet snake will get burnt by wrapping itself around them.

Reining Horses For Sale - 7 Movements They Should Know

In 2000, reining horses made a total of $4 million in the US. This figure rose to approximately $12.5 million in 2010, reflecting a 150% increase. Unlike cutting horses, their reining counterparts are raised for competition and rarely used for actual ranch work. Trained from the age of six months, these horses have high tolerance for physical exercise. Reining horses for sale usually feature a pedigree of stock horse breeds, especially the American Quarter Horse. Reining competitions are a test of the horse's ability to do spins, circles and stops. There is a fixed set of movements, based on which the rider and horse are scored.

Movements That Reining Horses for Sale Should Know

There are certain movements that reining horses for sale should all be trained in. The horse is trained in such a way that these movements are almost instinctive for them.

Circles: The horse must be able to perform large and quick circles at a near gallop speed, and smaller circles at a lope. The circles should be perfectly round, and the rider should be able to control the speed.

Flying lead change: During the suspension phase of the gait, the horse must be able to change its leading front and hind legs mid stride, while in a lope.

Rundown: While maintaining a distance of 20 feet from the fence, any horse trained for reining must be able to gallop down the long side of the competition arena.

Sliding stop: This is a particularly tricky move, since it requires precision for the horse to finish the movement in a straight line. For this move, the horse has to gallop down the arena and suddenly come to a halt, by allowing his hind feet to slide down, while his forefeet are in the 'walking' movement.

Back or backup: The horse backs up rapidly for about 10 feet. The backing up must be in a straight line and the horse must stop when asked to, while showing hesitation before going into the next move.

Rollback: A rollback is a continuous movement, where the horse has to turn 180 degrees after a sliding stop, and immediately move forward in a lope.

Spins or turnarounds: As the name suggests, the horse needs to do a 360-degree spin, while keeping his hind legs stationary. This move is judged on correctness, cadence and smoothness.
Well-trained reining horses for sale should be able to perform all of these movements. To ensure that you buy only well-trained horses, select from a respected ranch.

High Tech Advances in Horse Health - Equine Thermography

Man versus machine

Using military-derived technology and techniques perfected over 30 years, the physiology of your horse can be objectively assessed, identifying those brewing problems. All animals are thermally symmetrical, so deviation from this indicates altered physiological processes which overlay the site of an injury or disease. Graphically mapping the temperature across the skin's surface with Veterinary Thermal Imaging instantly pinpoints problem areas.

Vets and owners have been feeling and palpating legs for centuries to gauge differences in temperature linked to injury. With the advent and application of technology, the degree of accuracy and objectivity that can be attained is far superior. The human hand can detect a difference of 2 degrees Celsius, whereas the Thermal Imaging camera used in Veterinary Thermal Imaging is 40 times more sensitive. When you consider that only a 1 degree Celsius increase may result from some sympathetic dysfunctions, without Veterinary Thermal Imaging, problems could be overlooked rather than promptly treated, which saves money, time, distress and gives better prognoses.

The camera is the size of a camcorder, silent in operation, non-contact, emits no radiation and Imaging can be repeated as often as required. This is ideal for owners, as it removes the hassle of travelling, the need for sedation, stress in the animal, and cost; a full anatomical report costs about the same as one x-ray.

Early Warning System

During a two-year study it was shown that Equine Thermography could effectively and accurately pick up subtle changes in temperature prior to major injury occurring in 95% of cases, and 2-3 weeks before the trainer or Vet became aware. Of those horses that underwent clinical examination for lameness, Thermal Imaging again correctly predicted the site of the injury in 95% of cases.

Most horses don't have just one problem associated with lameness or a bad back. Often there are other secondary causes which may be overlooked, and cause the primary problem to reoccur unless they're also treated. Thermal Imaging is an excellent tool to identify these secondary problems so they can be managed too.

Complete MOT

Whilst Equine Thermography is excellent for detecting leg problems, this is only the tip of the iceberg. Further uses include identifying and assessing;

- bad backs;
- joint damage;
- muscular problems;
- dental pain;
- skin conditions;
- nerve dysfunction;
- foot balance;
- saddle fitting;

all of which could be picked up within one hour-long Imaging session. As thermal images are objective, and graphically map the extent of an injury and healing progress, owners can review and assess treatments together with their Vet and physiotherapist, getting the horse back into work as soon as possible.

Are You a Horse Rider?

Riding a horse is not just about sitting there and hanging on. Many people are surprised to learn that it's not just the horse getting a work out. Proper riding takes balance and skill to properly communicate with the animal.

Position is the most important and will directly affect not only your security, but the comfort of the horse as well. Too many would-be riders think that sitting deep on their seats and rounding their backs will keep them in the saddle. However, this slouched position puts unnecessary pressure on the lumbar region of the horse's spine, gives no clear direction, and will soon fatigue the rider. Rather you should sit up on your ' sitting bones' located in your pelvis and straighten your back. Your shoulders should be relaxed and slightly back and your hands should be just above the front of the saddle. Your legs hang down either side of the horse and your heels must be down. Only the ball of your foot should be on the stirrup tread, and there should be an invisible straight line between your ear, shoulder and heel. Be very conscious of your leg position! It is very common for beginners to revert to a hunched toe-down position when they are frightened. Unfortunately this position will do nothing for your balance and also frightens the horse since it is similar to the stance of an attacking animal.

When communicating with the horse you will use your legs, hands, balance and voice. All of these aids should be subtle and light. Don't get into the habit of constantly squeezing or kicking with your legs! These signals tell the horse to go, but once he's moving it is not necessary to keep reminding him! If your heels are down with balanced pressure in the stirrups, you won't fall off. Likewise, don't constantly pull and fiddle with the reins. If the horse is wearing a bit, this can be painful and aggravating. The reins are for communicating directions, not something to hold you on the horse.

When riding your horse, try to move your hips in rhythm with his stride. Bouncing or swaying in the saddle will be uncomfortable for both of you. English riders learn to "post" the trot, which involves a controlled rising and sitting in tune with the horse's movements. Western riders don't normally post, but are expected to 'sit the trot' without bouncing in the saddle.

Riding a horse properly takes time and a lot of practice. Just because you can stay on doesn't necessarily make you a rider. Proper use of the aids, complete control at all times, and considering the comfort of the horse are all part of the equation. Start slow and don't be in too much of a hurry to excel. In the meantime, enjoy your horse according to your current abilities and both you and he will be safe and happy.